Under Cover

CONCEALER: If you do not have a flawless complexion, concealer will be one of the most valuable cosmetics in your quest for beauty perfection. concealer can be used to disguise broken capillaries, dark circles, pimples and blemishes, and to even out skin tone. For the best all-round coverage, opt for a creamy concealer that has a high pigment content, liquid concealers tend to be quite oily and have a tendency to glide off whereas creamy concealers will stay put. The only drawback with them is that they can be more difficult to blend. To overcome this, work the concealer up and down the back of your hand and mix with a tiny bit of foundation. The product will warm up, making it more pliable and so easier to use. Those with dry skin will need a concealer with emollients to counteract dryness, while those with oily, problem skins will need a concealer which stays put, is oil-free and contains antibacterial ingredients to help treat blemishes and spots.

APPLICATION Always apply your concealer on top of your foundation and before you add powder. If you apply concealer before the foundation, more than likely the concealer will be wiped off as your applying the foundation. Gently pat concealer under the eyes using the ring finger. Use gentle pressure and blend outwards, taking care not to drag the skin. To conceal bags under the eyes, put concealer on the shadow beneath the bag, not on the bag itself, otherwise you’ll end up highlighting rather than hiding the problem. To cover up broken capillaries or uneven skin tone, paint the concealer on with a brush and gently blend it our with your finger. To touch out any blemishes or unsightly-looking spots, paint on concealer with a brush. Remember to start at the
centre of the imperfection and feather outwards.

COVERING SCARS Scars or birthmarks can be disguised using heavy-duty concealers. As additional coverage is required, it's best to buy a preparation from a specialist make­up store, not a general cosmetic counter. Concealers designed for television will give great coverage and are available in water-resistant and waterproof formulations to ensure they stay put in a range of different circumstances

Base Work

Foundation: Applied properly foundation can make any complexion seem healthy and flawless. The overall aim is for the skin to look like it is naturally flawless giving the impression that you haven’t used any products. Before you begin take a look in the mirror and think hard about your complexion, as you may not need to apply a base over the entire face. When choosing a foundation take into consideration your skin type, and the type of coverage that you require and the type of finish that you would like. Remember foundation is a product that the majority of us wear everyday so investing in a good quality foundation will pay off.

Formulations: Different foundations will provide different types of coverage. Foundations that come in the form of a stick can either be applied with the fingertips or with a makeup sponge. For best results smooth on in fine layers gradually building up, the coverage will be sheer to medium depending on how much is applied. It is always easier to apply more make up than try and remove it after application. Compact foundations combine face powder and a foundation in one. They are usually creamy formulations which dry up to a matt finish they are also available in oil free versions. They can be applied wet with a damp make up sponge to give more coverage or for a more natural finish apply with a dry sponge. Compact foundations are great if you’re pushed for time as they can create an even base at high speed. Liquid foundations give good coverage and are very versatile and come in different finishes. Tinted and mousse formulations give minimal coverage and are ideal for younger skins.

Skin Types: If you have sensitive skin, look for formulations which do not contain potential irritants such as fragrance, chemical sunscreens and alpha hydroxy acids. Mature and dry skins will benefit from rich creamy foundations which contain emollients to boost the skins moisture content and antioxidants to protect from environmental damage. Oily and problem skins will benefit from oil free formulations; they have oil absorbers which absorb excess oil and any unsightly shine. Normal skins can wear any type of foundation. In hot, humid weather every skin type can benefit from an oil free formulation.

Shopping For Foundation: Finding the perfect foundation for your skin tone: apply three suitable shades of colour along your cheek and jawbone; you are looking for one that virtually disappears into the skin. You are looking for one that not only matches the face but one that will also blend into the neck. If you can’t find the correct colour, custom blend foundations are also available whereby you can mix a few foundations to get your correct shade these normally come in liquid form. When you try a new shade apply it in natural light and wait at least 15 minutes before you reach a decision as oils on your skin can alter the overall shade making it darker than the actual shade you have chosen.

Foundation Essentials: When looking for a new foundation, bear in mind that it should contain a sun protection factor of at least 15 for daily use. This should be then increased in the summer and additional SPF should be worn, the sun is responsible for 90% of premature ageing, antioxidants will help protect the skin from visible signs of ageing. Light reflecting pigments in foundations can give a flattering finish on mature skins as they tend to add an instant luminosity to the skin.

Advice: To apply foundation, start from the centre of the face, dotting on the cheeks and forehead and blend outwards, you can either use your fingers or a clean make up sponge. Gently blot the skin with a tissue to remove any excess product or surface oil. Using a makeup sponge will give a more professional finish as you will easily be able to blend away foundation into the hair line and onto the neck.